Pam Brunton opened Inver on the shores of Loch Fyne with a question: does modern Scottish food exist? Between Two Waters is not quite the answer. It is the search itself — a book that moves between memoir, manifesto, and feminist critique of the food business without settling comfortably into any one form.
Brunton’s restaurant holds a Green Michelin Star, but the book is less interested in the accolades than in the contradictions. Destination restaurants promise immersion in a landscape. But does the immersion help you understand the land, or does it turn both into an experience to be consumed?
If Fergus Henderson’s Nose to Tail Eating was a manifesto for using the whole animal, Brunton’s is a manifesto for examining the whole system — the supply chain, the labour, the stories restaurants tell themselves about sustainability while the freezer hums in the back.
A book for a long evening on a Scottish loch, or anywhere the questions about food and landscape are not yet settled.
