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Review: Dirty Kitchen

Twenty-two years as an undocumented immigrant, examined through Filipino recipes and colonial history.

Review: Dirty Kitchen — book cover

Jill Damatac left the United States in 2015, after twenty-two years of living there as an undocumented immigrant. America was the only home she knew. Invisibility had become her identity.

Dirty Kitchen weaves memoir, food writing, and colonial history as Damatac cooks her way through Filipino recipes and examines what was done to her family with a clarity that the New York Times called “searing.” The “dirty kitchen” is the outdoor kitchen in Filipino homes where the real cooking happens, away from the formal space. It is also a metaphor for the truths that do not get served at the front table.

In the lineage of Viet Thanh Nguyen’s work on refugee experience, Damatac brings something the fiction writers cannot: the recipes are real, the kitchen is real, the food is the evidence.

A book that asks what identity means when you have spent two decades unable to name yourself. The answer smells of garlic and vinegar and home.

Fisher & Farmer